fashion

Le Smoking : The 2014 Reintroduction of Yves Saint Laurent’s Iconic Signature Look

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The 2014 Reintroduction of Yves Saint Laurent’s Iconic Signature Look From Marlene Dietrich’s top hat & tails in the 1930 film Morroco, to the headlines proclaiming “Garbo in pants!” whenever the Swedish actress was seen traipsing about on Hollywood Boulevard in trousers, women of the time were already, way back then, beginning to borrow pieces from their husbands’ closets. A Seventh Avenue manufacturer even created a ladies’ evening-wear tuxedo, but it would not be for another 30 years that the look would finally take off, when one fateful day in 1966, an Algerian-born designer named Yves Saint Laurent created LE SMOKING, [French shorthand for black tie], which was comprised of a tuxedo suit of velvet or wool, and was, essentially, black-tie menswear reinterpreted . . . {arts & culture | photographer : helmut newton}

Yves Saint Laurent first showed the new tuxedo as part of his autumn/winter “Pop Art” collection in 1966, and yet, it was photographer Helmut Newton who elevated Le Smoking to an iconic status with his shot for French Vogue in 1975, above, taken in a dusky Parisian alleyway–Rue Aubriot–in pure elegant simplicity that remains the epitome of chic to this day.

The 2014 Reintroduction of Yves Saint Laurent’s Iconic Signature Look

The history of the suit began when Yves Saint Laurent’s vision came to be in 1966, and since then the Le Smoking tuxedo look has long been synonymous with a certain type of seductive style. It’s perhaps the very definition of, or the answer to, that “je ne sai quoi.”

Above & below : Bianca de Marcias wore an Yves St Laurent skirt suit when she married Mick Jagger in St Tropez in 1971, in what may be one of the chicest wedding outfits of all time.

The 2014 Reintroduction of Yves Saint Laurent’s Iconic Signature Look

“For a woman, Le Smoking is an indispensable garment with which she finds herself continually in fashion, because it is about style, not fashion. Fashions come and go, but style is forever.” –Yves Saint Laurent
The 2014 Reintroduction of Yves Saint Laurent’s Iconic Signature Look

Le Smoking would not only a mark shift in fashion, but in power. In the words of Pierre Bergé, “It is a well-known fact that Chanel gave women their freedom; years later Saint Laurent brought them power.”

The 2014 Reintroduction of Yves Saint Laurent’s Iconic Signature Look

Above, Bianca Jagger in an insanely chic white Le Smoking, with Nathalie Delon.

The 2014 Reintroduction of Yves Saint Laurent’s Iconic Signature Look

Le Smoking was a controversial statement of femininity – a sexuality that did not rely on ruffles or exposed skin, but instead smouldered beneath the sharp contours of a perfectly cut jacket and trouser. –Another Mag

The 2014 Reintroduction of Yves Saint Laurent’s Iconic Signature Look

Above, Tom Ford’s interpretation of Le Smoking [photography by Anthony Maule] The 2014 Reintroduction of Yves Saint Laurent’s Iconic Signature Look

Above, Ralph Lauren‘s recent interpretation of Le Smoking, Spring 2014 Ready-to-Wear

hbz-charlotte-rampling-lead-smAbove, Charlotte Rampling in Harper’s Bazaar US, April 2014 [photography by Ben Weller] The 2014 Reintroduction of Yves Saint Laurent’s Iconic Signature Look

Above, Yves Saint Laurent & models in Le Smoking, at his final couture collection in 2002
The 2014 Reintroduction of Yves Saint Laurent’s Iconic Signature Look Hedi Slimane Introduces the 2014 Version of Yves Saint Laurent’s Signature Look

And now, with so much history, Hedi Silmane, current creative director of the French fashion house celebrates this heritage, with the creation of an atelier dedicated to tailoring at the Saint Laurent studios for the creation of tuxedo lines for both the men’s and women’s ready-to-wear, as well the permanent collections.

The 2014 Reintroduction of Yves Saint Laurent’s Iconic Signature LookAbove, Abbey Lee Kershaw shot by Hedi Slimane

The designer also presents the modern-day version of Le Smoking, above, as chic as all the incarnations before, but with modern lines and a cool, edgy vibe . . .


{p.s.} a few lovely tuxedo jackets to try : linen tailored blazer // Karen Millen white tuxedo Jacket // velvet tuxedo jacket

 

 

[sources & credits : top – Yves St. Laurent & Lois Chiles attend the Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture Collection Fashion Show on November 5, 1974 at the Pierre Hotel in New York City, photography by Ron Galella // daily mail // vanity fair // vogue // harper’s bazaar // all things you are // bouquet de fashion fleurs // saint laurent via CR fashion book]

 
3 Notes
  • Trust Slimane to re-invent an YSL signature piece impeccably & create the perfect slim-fit tuxedo.

  • It’s hard to duplicate a classic but Ralph Lauren comes very close to the original. YSL, I miss him so.

  • SISSY said...

    I AM ON THE HUNT FOR ONE !
    THE LOOK IS TIMELESS AND IT GOES WITH EVERYTHING?

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